Portal, AZ - Rodeo, NM

Ten hikers met at the Chiricahua Desert Museum to carpool to Fort Bowie National Historical Site. Fort Bowie was established in 1862, and abandoned in 1894. It stood at the crossroads of the Chiricahua Apache's fight to defend their ancestral homeland and the U.S. Army's westward expansion. The first Fort Bowie was more of a temporary camp and that site can be visited. The second version of the fort was quite substantial and included adobe barracks, a Victorian house, other houses, corrals, a trading post, a hospital, a school, a tennis court and an ice station!  Fort Bowie and Apache Pass were the focal point of military operations that resulted in the in the surrender of Geronimo in 1886, and the unfortunate removal of the Chiricahua Apaches to Florida and Alabama. The nearby Apache Pass stage station was a crucial, high-risk stop for the 

Butterfield Overland Mailroute. Due to its reliable water supply, this was a vital stop for travelers but became a flashpoint for conflict and led to the establishment of Fort Bowie.

You have to walk to get to the this site, unless you are disabled. There is a very pleasant 3-mile round trip route that has an option of a high trail that overlooks the site. The walk in was very informative with stops at Apache Spring, the Butterfield Stage route and more. You can see below that Apache Spring doesn’t look much now. But back when the Fort was functional it was a vital part of the operation.This spring served as an essential water source for the Apaches, Butterfield Stage travelers and the fort. It exists in a shaded, scenic spot nestled in a rocky, oak-lined basin. 

An additional stop on the way in to the site was the Fort Bowie Post Cemetery where Cochise’s two year old son is buried. There is speculation that he died of dysentery. Several other Native American children are buried here also.

While walking around the ruins we certainly added another one mile to our total. It was all very pleasant — the trails, the weather and the information provided.

The visitor center is closed at this time of year, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, but we had lots of information available to us that was provided by the excellent signage throughout the site. Here is another example:

You may think you are looking at a picture of a retirement home below, but these are just active hikers at lunch. Honestly! The visitor center porch is quite comfortable and has great views.

And finally, after a wonderful day at this historic site we drove to Willcox for dinner at Isabel’s South of the Border Restaurant. There was a birthday. Guess whose?

Next week, on February 5, we will stay closer to home, driving out the Foothills Road to East Turkey Creek and walking up the wash to the road that leads into Paradise. This hike is in the creek bottom which varies from quite easy walking to negotiating through rubble. You can turn around at any time; the total length is about 2 1/2 miles one way? Note that there is the option of returning cross country around Harris Mountain, which we have done many times. It will make you tired. Meet at the junction of Portal and Foothills Roads (Trash Corner) at 9:00 a.m. Bring lunch, good boots, water, a hat, sunscreen and layers of clothing appropriate for the weather.

Happy trails!

Report and photos by Carol